Canadian Rockies

Moraine Lake is not accessible by private car for most of the summer. Parks Canada banned personal vehicles from the lake access road after the parking situation became unmanageable, replaced by mandatory shuttle bookings from Lake Louise village. This is worth knowing before you plan a day around a spontaneous visit. The shuttle system works; the lake is worth it. The ten peaks reflected in the turquoise water are real and as good as the photographs.

The Parks

Banff, Jasper, Kootenay, and Yoho national parks together form a UNESCO World Heritage Site that covers 20,000 square kilometres. A Parks Canada Discovery Pass (around CAD 145 per adult) covers entry to all four for a year and makes financial sense for any visit of more than three or four days.

Banff is the most visited and has the most infrastructure: the town of Banff with hotels and restaurants, Lake Louise, Moraine Lake, and direct access to the Icefields Parkway. Book accommodation in Banff town and the Lake Louise area four to six months ahead for summer visits. July and August are the peak months; June and September have better weather ratios to crowds.

Icefields Parkway: The 232-kilometre road connecting Banff to Jasper is one of the most scenic drives in North America. The Columbia Icefield, with the Athabasca Glacier, is the main stop; the Ice Explorer tours drive modified vehicles onto the glacier surface. The glacier is retreating visibly; markers show its position in previous decades and the recession since 1900 is significant.

Jasper is quieter than Banff and the park is larger. Maligne Lake has Spirit Island, accessible only by boat tour; the view from the water toward the mountains behind is the classic Jasper photograph. The Maligne Canyon in winter, when the waterfalls freeze into ice columns, is one of the stranger landscapes in the range.

Wildlife

Bears, both black and grizzly, are present throughout the parks. Elk in Banff townsite are common enough that locals have specific protocols for avoiding them. Mountain goats frequent the upper slopes and are visible from the Icefields Parkway. Grizzly sightings in the lower valleys happen; bear spray is available at all outdoor stores and guides recommend having it accessible when hiking.

Staying

The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise and the Fairmont Banff Springs are the grand historic hotels; expensive and specifically worth knowing about as experiences. The Jasper Park Lodge is the equivalent in the northern park. Budget accommodation fills quickly in summer; campgrounds within the parks are excellent but also book ahead.

Getting There

Calgary International Airport is the main access point, roughly 1.5 hours from Banff by car. Shuttle services run from Calgary airport. A rental car is necessary for any serious exploration of the range.