Cambridge: A University Town That Expects You to Figure It Out Yourself

Cambridge is not set up for tourism in the way that other major English historic cities are. The university colleges – 31 of them, some dating back to the 13th century – are working academic institutions, and most keep their gates open to visitors for specific hours only. There is no single entrance, no central ticket, and no curated “university experience.” You find your way through the city on your own, which is why the visitors who enjoy it most are the ones who walk slowly and look up.

The most visited building is King’s College Chapel: a perpendicular Gothic masterpiece completed in 1515 with the finest fan-vaulted ceiling in England. The King’s College Choir, founded by Henry VI in 1441, still sings choral evensong there on most term-time evenings – a service that is free and open to the public and is, by any reasonable measure, the single best cultural experience available in Cambridge. Entry to the chapel at other times costs about 11 pounds.

What Actually Matters

The Backs – the stretch of river Cam behind the colleges, with King’s, Clare, Trinity, and St John’s lawns running down to the water – is best seen by punting. Every punting company in Cambridge will offer you a guided tour or self-hire option. The self-hire approach is cheaper and more entertaining (and occasionally wetter). The Mathematical Bridge and the Bridge of Sighs at St John’s are best seen from the water.

Trinity College is the largest college in Cambridge and the single institution that has produced the most Nobel laureates in the world: 34 as of recent count, which beats France’s national total and several countries’ science programmes. The Great Court, open to visitors, is the largest enclosed courtyard in Cambridge.

The Fitzwilliam Museum on Trumpington Street is a free world-class museum holding Egyptian, Greek, and Roman antiquities alongside European old masters and an unusual collection of Japanese prints. The permanent collection is exceptional and consistently undervisited relative to the college buildings.

The Eagle Pub on Benet Street is where Watson and Crick announced the discovery of the structure of DNA in February 1953. The RAF Bar inside has wartime airmen’s signatures scorched into the ceiling from when they used lighters to write their names and squadron numbers. Worth a pint specifically.

Eating

Midsummer House on the river holds two Michelin stars and is genuinely excellent; book weeks ahead for dinner. For something more accessible, The Anchor near Silver Street punts does reliable food and has outdoor seating on the river.

The market square (Monday through Saturday, morning to early afternoon) has solid independent food stalls – better than the tourist cafes around the colleges – and is where locals actually eat lunch.

Getting There and Staying

Cambridge is 50 minutes from London King’s Cross by direct fast train, which makes it a realistic day trip. Trains run every 15 to 30 minutes. If you are staying over, the city centre has several mid-range hotels; the University Arms Hotel on Regent Street is the most significant address, a recently refurbished historic property directly opposite Parker’s Piece.

Cycling is the natural way to move around Cambridge. Several rental shops operate near the station.