British Virgin Islands

The British Virgin Islands are widely described as one of the premier sailing destinations in the world, and the description is accurate. Steady trade winds, protected anchorages, island chains within easy daysail range of each other, and water clear enough to see the anchor on the bottom in 20 feet. The Mooring and Sunsail bareboat charter operations in Tortola have industrialised access to this for a generation of first-time charterers, which either improves the experience or degrades it depending on your views about crowd management.

Hurricanes Irma and Maria hit the BVI in September 2017 with devastating effect. Recovery has been substantial but uneven – some areas rebuilt beautifully, others remain scarred, and the character of some properties changed with the insurance rebuild money. The natural attractions (reef, beaches, The Baths) came through largely intact.

Key Islands

Tortola is the main island and arrival point, with Road Town as the capital. Sage Mountain National Park on the ridge gives views of the Sir Francis Drake Channel and the surrounding islands. Cane Garden Bay is the best beach on Tortola: a long arc of white sand with multiple beach bars and usually a few boats at anchor offshore.

Virgin Gorda has The Baths – the signature geological attraction of the BVI: massive granite boulders deposited by volcanic activity that create a series of caverns, grottoes, and natural pools filled with turquoise water. It is genuinely remarkable. Go early morning for solitude; tour groups arrive mid-morning. The yacht anchorage at North Sound, on the opposite end of the island, has more upscale infrastructure.

Jost Van Dyke is the “friendly island” – a small settlement of a few hundred people with a cluster of beach bars at Great Harbour. Foxy’s Tamarind Bar has been a sailing institution for decades. The Soggy Dollar Bar, accessible only by swimming ashore or dinghy, allegedly invented the Painkiller cocktail. Both claims are credible.

Anegada is the flat coral island at the northern end of the chain, remote enough that most one-week charters don’t reach it. The beaches – Loblolly Bay, Cow Wreck Beach – are among the best in the Caribbean. The surrounding reef has sunk hundreds of ships and offers exceptional diving. The lobster is genuinely famous.

Sailing

The BVI is classed as a Level 1 sailing destination – suitable for relatively inexperienced charterers. Trade winds are consistent December through April, seas are protected, and navigation between islands is straightforward. Moorings are now available everywhere (designed to protect reefs), bookable and payable via the Boaty Ball app; book ahead during peak season.

When to Go

December through April is the prime season: consistent trade winds, low rainfall, calm seas, higher prices. November and May offer shoulder season conditions at reduced cost. Hurricane season runs June through November; August and September carry the highest risk. Some operators close temporarily in the deep season.

Eating

The lobster on Anegada is a legitimate reason to make the extra passage. Freshly caught, simply grilled, large. On Jost Van Dyke, the beach bar food – fresh fish, roti, local standards – is better than it needs to be. On Tortola and Virgin Gorda, the resort restaurants are competent if expensive.