Boudhanath Stupa, Kathmandu

Boudhanath is one of the largest stupas in the world – 36 metres high, on a mandala-shaped base that forms the main circumambulation platform. It sits in its own square about 11 km east of central Kathmandu, surrounded by more than 50 Tibetan Buddhist monasteries built since Tibetan refugees settled here after 1959. The population around the stupa remains predominantly Tibetan-Nepali, which gives the neighbourhood a different character from the rest of Kathmandu – quieter, more monastic, the smell of juniper incense in the air from the earliest morning.

The stupa was damaged in the 2015 earthquake and substantially repaired. The spire was fully reconstructed and the structure reopened for circumambulation in 2016. UNESCO granted World Heritage status as part of the Kathmandu Valley listing in 1979.

Visiting

Foreign visitors pay 400 NPR for entry (SAARC country nationals 100 NPR; Nepalese citizens free; children under 10 free). The complex is open 5am to 9pm, though ticket counters typically operate closer to 5am-7pm. Ticket offices are at all major entry streets into the stupa square; if you are staying at a local guesthouse, you typically pay only once per stay.

The main activity is the kora – the ritual clockwise circumambulation of the stupa base. The path is wide enough to accommodate the steady stream of monks, nuns, and local practitioners who walk it at all hours, spinning the prayer wheels set into the base. Go early morning before 8am or late afternoon after 5pm: this is when the monasteries release their residents for circumambulation and when the incense is strongest. Allow at least 90 minutes to two hours: time for the kora, observing prayer rituals, stepping into a monastery courtyard or two, and sitting at one of the rooftop restaurants overlooking the stupa.

The large painted eyes on the square base of the spire, visible on all four cardinal faces, are one of the most recognisable images of Nepal. Climbing to the stupa’s upper platform at the base of the dome is permitted and gives a good sense of scale looking back across the surrounding square.

The Monasteries

Over 20 monasteries rim the stupa square; most are functioning institutions with daily prayer schedules rather than tourist sites. The Shechen Tennyi Dargyeling Monastery has a particularly ornate main hall. Several allow respectful visitors to observe morning and evening prayers. Ask at your guesthouse which monasteries are currently open to visitors rather than walking in unannounced.

Where to Eat

The rooftop restaurants around the stupa are the main eating option, with direct views of the stupa from terrace seating. Double Dorje and Stupa View Restaurant both serve reasonable Nepali and Tibetan food. Order thukpa (Tibetan noodle soup) and momos (dumplings). The square also has street-level bakeries and smaller cafes serving the local population at lower prices.

Getting There

Taxis from Thamel in central Kathmandu take 20-40 minutes depending on traffic; fare should be around NPR 400-600 by metered taxi. Boudhanath makes sense on a circuit that includes Pashupatinath Temple, 2 km to the west along the Bagmati River – the two sites can be combined in a half-day.

Staying Near the Stupa

Dragon Guest House and Lotus Guest House are well-positioned budget options within the stupa square itself. Hyatt Regency Kathmandu is about 2 km away and provides reliable facilities without being in the immediate neighbourhood.