Borgarfjordur Eystri, East Iceland

Borgarfjordur Eystri is a small village of fewer than 100 people at the end of a long fjord road in the East Fjords of Iceland. It sits directly beneath the rhyolite massif of Dyrfjoll (the Door Mountains), whose jagged peaks at 1,136 metres make up one of the most dramatic rock formations in the country. The drive in from Egilsstadir, 70 kilometres west, crosses the 570-metre Öxi pass and gives an introduction to the scale of the eastern highlands.

The village is known specifically for two things: Atlantic puffins and the hiking in the Dyrfjoll area. It is one of the most accessible puffin colonies in Iceland and one of the quieter hiking destinations.

Puffins

The rock outcrop called Hafnarhólmi, right at the village harbour, has one of the most accessible Atlantic puffin colonies in Iceland. A walkway and observation platform have been built among the boulders where the puffins nest; in summer (May to August) you can watch them from two metres away as they tend their burrows, arrive with fish, and argue with their neighbours. There is no entry fee. The puffins are not alarmed by quiet human presence at the platform.

The colony numbers in the thousands and is one of the reliable places in Iceland for close puffin photography without a boat trip.

Hiking

The Dyrfjoll range behind the village offers serious mountain hiking. The most famous route is the traverse to Vatnsskardsid col (approximately 9 hours for experienced hikers, involving steep scrambling on loose rock), but several shorter routes reach the foothills and give good views of the distinctive rock shapes. The ridge walking is exposed to wind and weather; conditions change quickly.

A local hiking map is available at the village guesthouse. The route markers across the highlands require experience with navigation; some sections are unmarked across open lava fields.

Getting There

No public transport serves Borgarfjordur Eystri regularly. A hire car from Egilsstadir is the practical approach. The road from Egilsstadir (Route 94) is paved but narrow in sections and the Oxi pass can be closed by snow outside summer. Check road conditions at road.is before travelling.

Egilsstadir has a domestic airport with connections from Reykjavik (45 minutes). The town is also on the Ring Road (Route 1) and reachable by bus from Reykjavik in about 7-8 hours.

Where to Stay

The main accommodation option is Alfheimar, a guesthouse in the village that has been operating for years and is the standard choice. Sleeping bag accommodation is available for budget travellers; en suite rooms cost around ISK 25,000-35,000 per night in summer. Book well ahead for July and August; the village’s limited beds fill up with hikers.

The guesthouse restaurant at Alfheimar is the main eating option in the village. The menu focuses on Icelandic lamb, skyr-based desserts, and fish from the fjord. Dinner for two runs around ISK 8,000-12,000. Stock up on food in Egilsstadir if you want more flexibility; there is no supermarket in Borgarfjordur Eystri.

When to Go

June through August is the practical window. Puffins are present May through August and the hiking is passable from late June when the snow has cleared from the higher routes. September brings low crowds and dramatic light but some trails become treacherous with early snowfall.

The village can feel isolated in a way that the Ring Road tourist circuit does not. That is part of the point.