Borgarfjörður Eystri, East Iceland

An estimated 10,000 pairs of Atlantic puffins nest at Hafnarhólmi, the rock outcrop at the harbour of Borgarfjörður Eystri, from around mid-April through mid-August. A boardwalk and observation platform has been built directly among the nesting burrows, which means you can watch puffins returning with beaks full of sand eels from two metres away. No entry fee. No boat trip. No booking required. The puffins treat quiet human presence on the platform with total indifference, which is either a sign of how well-habituated they have become or a reflection of their priorities during nesting season.

Borgarfjörður Eystri is a village of fewer than 100 permanent residents at the end of a fjord road in the East Fjords of Iceland, about 70 km east of the regional hub of Egilsstadir. The road, Route 94, is now fully paved, which has made the approach slightly less adventurous than it used to be. It still takes an hour and fifteen minutes from Egilsstadir because of the terrain, including the Öxi pass at 570 metres. Check road conditions at road.is before going in autumn or spring; the pass can close with early or late snowfall.

Puffins

The Hafnarhólmi colony is one of the most accessible in Iceland specifically because of the infrastructure. Puffins at more famous locations require boat trips, telescopes, or significant hikes. Here, you walk five minutes from the village centre to a platform built at bird level and they are simply there, going about their business. Bring a long lens for close-up photography, but the standard telephoto range works fine from the platform.

The puffins are present from approximately mid-April. By late August most have departed; if you are visiting in September the colony is gone. The peak density and activity is late May through July when both adults are actively feeding chicks in the burrows.

Hiking

The Dyrfjöll range directly behind the village offers some of Iceland’s most dramatic mountain hiking. The peaks reach 1,136 metres and the rock is rhyolite in multiple colours, which produces a visual intensity unlike the basalt formations that dominate much of Iceland. The Víknaslóðir trail network has over 27 marked routes, ranging from short coastal walks to the full traverse linking Borgarfjörður Eystri with the neighbouring fjord of Seyðisfjörður over multiple days.

The Vatnsskarðsið traverse to the main col takes around 9 hours for experienced hikers and involves steep scrambling on loose rock; it requires proper navigation skills and weather judgement. Shorter routes into the foothills are accessible to any competent walker with appropriate footwear and layers.

The local hiking map is available at Álfheimar guesthouse. Some sections of the highland routes are unmarked; do not rely on a phone signal for navigation.

The Elf Church

Just outside the village, a small stone chapel has been built into a rocky outcrop as an accommodation to the local huldufólk, the hidden people of Icelandic folklore. The belief in elves and hidden people is treated with varying degrees of seriousness by different Icelanders; in Borgarfjörður Eystri, the folklore is embedded in the landscape and the village identity in a way that makes it feel less like superstition and more like local knowledge. The chapel is small and made of natural stone and takes about two minutes to visit. It is genuinely charming.

Where to Stay and Eat

Álfheimar guesthouse is the main accommodation option and has been the standard choice for hikers and puffin visitors for years. Sleeping bag accommodation is available for budget travellers; en suite rooms cost around ISK 25,000-35,000 in summer. Book well ahead for July and August; the limited bed count fills up.

The guesthouse restaurant is the only real eating option in the village. The menu focuses on Icelandic lamb, fish from the fjord, and skyr-based desserts; dinner for two runs around ISK 8,000-12,000. Álfacafé nearby does homemade waffles and cakes in a setting decorated with elf-themed items and local stones, which sounds eccentric and turns out to be pleasant. Stock up in Egilsstadir if you want more than this; there is no supermarket in Borgarfjörður Eystri.

When to Go

June through August is the practical window. Late June to mid-August combines the best hiking conditions, the full puffin colony, and the long daylight hours that allow evening hikes. Early September still has good hiking and dramatic light, but some trails become treacherous with early snowfall and the puffins are mostly gone.

The village has a quality of genuine remoteness that the Ring Road tourist circuit lacks. That is the reason to make the drive.