Big Island, Hawaii

The Big Island: Hawaii’s Youngest and Most Geologically Active Island

As of June 2026, Kilauea volcano on the Big Island is in an episodic eruption phase at Halemaumau crater within Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Episode 48 ran for 9 hours on June 1, with lava fountains reaching 200 metres. Episode 49 is expected. This is the most recorded fountain episodes in the history of this type of Kilauea eruption. The situation changes week to week; check the USGS Hawaiian Volcano Observatory and the National Park Service alerts before your visit to understand what is actually happening. A park visit without checking current conditions is a mistake.

The Big Island (officially Hawaii Island) is the youngest of the main Hawaiian Islands and the largest, roughly 10,000 square kilometres. It contains 11 of the world’s 14 climate zones within its boundaries. You can drive from tropical coastline to alpine desert in under two hours, which is genuinely unusual for a single island.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

The park encompasses Kilauea and much of Mauna Loa and is the island’s most important destination. The eruptions are occurring inside Halemaumau crater, which is within the Kilauea caldera. Part of the caldera rim remains closed for safety due to ongoing hazards. During active eruption, the lava lake glows at night and fountaining can be visible from the Kilauea Overlook.

Crater Rim Drive circles the Kilauea summit with sulphur vents, rainforest sections, and multiple caldera overlooks. The Thurston Lava Tube (Nahuku) is a 500-metre walk-through tunnel formed when the outer surface of a lava flow cooled while the interior kept moving. Chain of Craters Road descends 3,700 feet to the coast through a series of pit craters. The coastal lava bench at the road’s end is dramatic regardless of whether active flows are reaching the sea.

Park entry: $30 per vehicle, valid for 7 days.

Mauna Kea

At 4,207 metres above sea level, Mauna Kea is the world’s tallest mountain when measured from its ocean floor base: roughly 10,000 metres total, taller than Everest. The summit sits above 40 percent of the earth’s atmosphere, which is why 13 countries have built observatories there. The Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station at 2,800 metres is the mandatory acclimatisation stop; spend at least 30 minutes here before attempting the summit road.

The road from the visitor station to the summit requires a 4WD. AWD vehicles from Hilo or Kona rental agencies are technically permitted but the rental companies often prohibit summit access in their agreements; check before booking.

Sunset at the summit is extraordinary: the cloud layer sits below you, the shadow of the mountain falls across the clouds to the east, and the curvature of the earth is visible on the horizon. Stargazing from the summit or from the visitor station is among the best in the world outside polar regions. The Onizuka Center runs public stargazing on clear evenings.

The summit area is sacred to Native Hawaiians. The ongoing dispute over the Thirty Meter Telescope (TMT) construction reflects a real conflict between astronomical research interests and indigenous cultural rights. Understanding this before visiting adds necessary context.

The Two Coasts

The Kona coast in the west is the dry, sunny, resort side: hotels, restaurants, snorkelling beaches. Captain Cook Monument in Kealakekua Bay marks where Cook was killed in 1779; the bay has excellent snorkelling. The manta ray night dive operates from Kailua-Kona, where mantas aggregate around underwater lights after dark. Several operators run evening dives and it is one of the better wildlife experiences in Hawaii.

Hilo on the east coast is wetter, greener, and less developed. Akaka Falls, a 422-foot waterfall in a lush gorge 15 minutes from the city, is one of the most beautiful waterfall settings in Hawaii. Rainbow Falls is closer to town and named for the rainbows visible in the mist on sunny mornings.

Kona Coffee

The western slopes between 500 and 1,000 metres elevation have a microclimate (sunny mornings, cloudy afternoons, volcanic soil) that produces distinctively flavoured coffee sold at a significant premium. Several farm tours are available from Highway 11 between Kailua-Kona and Captain Cook. Buying directly from a small farm is more honest than buying “Kona blend” at a resort gift shop, where 10 percent Kona content is often sold at full Kona prices.

Practical Notes

Renting a car is non-negotiable on the Big Island; public transport is minimal and the distances between the main areas are substantial. A full circuit of the island is about 220 miles. The Saddle Road across the interior between Hilo and Kona used to be in poor condition and was prohibited by rental agreements; it has been upgraded and is now the standard route.