Bay of Kotor, Montenegro

The Bay of Kotor is not technically a fjord. A fjord requires glacial carving; the bay was formed by flooding of a river canyon – an inlet known as a “ria” in geological classification. It looks exactly like a fjord anyway, with limestone mountains rising almost vertically from the water and the narrow inner bay so enclosed by rock that you cannot see the Adriatic from inside it. The distinction matters only to geologists. For everyone else, the effect of mountains, water, and medieval stone towns packed against the waterline is extraordinary.

The bay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Kotor, at the innermost point, was under Venetian control from 1420 to 1797, and the architecture, the lion of St Mark above the gates, and the general physical character of the old town bear that heritage clearly.

Kotor Old Town

The old town is compact, walkable, and well-preserved. The Cathedral of Saint Tryphon (1166) dominates the main square. The medieval lanes between the square and the walls reward aimless walking.

The city walls are the main physical challenge and the main reward. The full ascent to the fortress at the top takes about 90 minutes at a moderate pace, climbing roughly 250 metres on steep stone steps. The view from the top – with the town directly below and the water beyond – is the most dramatic elevated view of the bay. Entry to the walls: 15 euros; free for under-12s. Not well-shaded; go early morning or late afternoon.

New in 2023: The Kotor-Lovcen cable car departs from Dub station, about 8 minutes from the old town, making an 11-minute journey up to Mount Lovcen at 1,348 metres. Panoramic views over the entire bay.

Perast and Our Lady of the Rocks

Perast, 20 minutes north of Kotor, is a small Venetian-era town with 16 churches and 17 baroque palaces for its size – a disproportionate legacy of the maritime wealth of its sea captains. The town is quieter than Kotor and one of the best places on the bay to avoid the cruise ship crowds.

Our Lady of the Rocks (Gospa od Skrpjela) is an artificial island built by sailors who began dumping rocks at a submerged reef in 1452, according to a vow, and added to it over centuries until an island large enough to support a church existed. Short boat tours from Perast (around 15 euros, 1.5 hours) include the island and a return to Perast. The story of how the island was made is more interesting than any detail about the church.

Getting Around the Bay

The bay road connects all the main towns and takes about 45 minutes to drive from Herceg Novi at the entrance to Kotor at the back. In summer the road is congested and slow. Taking the car ferry that crosses the inner bay near Kamenari (about 5 minutes, frequent, cheap) cuts significant time off the loop if you are coming from the north.

Where to Stay and Eat

Hotel Cattaro inside the Kotor old town walls puts you within the fortifications. Konoba Scala Santa near the north gate serves solid local fish and lamb dishes at honest prices – get a reservation in July and August. The restaurants on the main Kotor square facing the cathedral price for location rather than quality; two minutes’ walk back into the lanes produces noticeably better food at lower cost.

When to Go

May, June, and September offer the best combination: warm enough to swim, dry enough to hike the walls, and noticeably less crowded than July-August when cruise ships anchor in the bay and the old town reaches capacity. The bay remains beautiful in October with clear autumn light on the limestone.