Discover the Bay of Islands, New Zealand

The Bay of Islands sits in the Northland region of New Zealand, roughly three hours north of Auckland by road. It is a collection of 144 islands scattered across a deep harbour, where warm subtropical waters, dense coastal forest, and a long history of Maori and European settlement combine to make it one of the country’s most rewarding destinations. Visitors come for sailing, diving, dolphin watching, and for a close look at the founding moments of the New Zealand nation.

Paihia

Paihia is the main hub for visitors to the bay. It sits on the western shore and is where most tour operators, ferry terminals, and accommodation providers are based. The town is compact and easy to walk, with the waterfront providing views across the harbour toward Russell.

From Paihia’s wharf you can board boat tours, fishing charters, kayak hire, and the passenger ferry to Russell. The town has a reasonable selection of cafes and restaurants, supermarkets, and dive operators. It works well as a base because transport to other parts of the bay is straightforward from here.

The drive north from Paihia to Kerikeri takes about 20 minutes and opens up access to Northland’s stone store, the oldest surviving stone building in New Zealand, as well as a number of craft studios and orchards. Kerikeri is also the departure point for several walking tracks into the Puketi and Omahuta forests.

Russell

Russell sits on the eastern side of the harbour and is reached by a short ferry crossing from Paihia or by a longer drive around the bay. It was one of the first permanent European settlements in New Zealand and carries that history in its streets.

During the early 19th century, Russell, then called Kororareka, was a busy port used by whalers and traders. It had a rough reputation and was attacked and partly burned during the conflict led by Hone Heke in 1845. The flagpole on the hill above town, Maiki, is where Heke famously cut down the British flag multiple times. Walking up to the flagpole takes around 20 minutes and the view over the harbour from the top is worth the effort.

Back in town, Christ Church on the waterfront is the oldest surviving church in New Zealand, dating to 1836, and its cemetery contains graves that reflect the diverse origins of the early settlers. The Russell Museum on York Street holds a good collection of local history and has a one-fifth scale model of Cook’s Endeavour.

The waterfront itself is lined with older wooden buildings, some dating to the 1800s. The Duke of Marlborough Hotel on the waterfront holds New Zealand’s oldest continuously held liquor licence and its dining room looks directly onto the harbour. The Strand, the main waterfront road, has several cafes and galleries that occupy buildings that have stood for well over a century.

Russell is quieter than Paihia and some visitors prefer to stay there for that reason. A night or two in Russell gives a better sense of the bay’s early history and a slower pace.

Waitangi

The Waitangi Treaty Grounds occupy a headland just north of Paihia. The Treaty of Waitangi was signed here on 6 February 1840 between representatives of the British Crown and a large number of Maori chiefs, and it is considered New Zealand’s founding document. The site is now managed as a national historic reserve and attracts visitors year-round.

Entry to the grounds includes access to the Treaty House, which was the home of British Resident James Busby and is the oldest surviving house in the country. The adjacent whare runanga, a carved meeting house completed in 1940 for the centennial of the treaty signing, is one of the finest examples of traditional Maori architecture in New Zealand. Every region of the country contributed carvings to the building, making it a national rather than a tribal structure.

Also on the grounds is a large war canoe, a waka taua called Ngātokimatawhaorua, which at 35 metres is one of the longest in existence. It is housed in its own canoe shed near the shore and is launched on Waitangi Day each year.

The grounds include a cultural performance as part of the daily programme. Guides walk visitors through the site and explain the events leading up to the signing and the debates around the treaty’s meaning that continue today. The visitor centre has a museum with detailed exhibits on the treaty and its context.

The site faces the bay and the views from the headland are excellent, particularly in the early morning.

Places to Visit

• Hole in the Rock: A sea cave and arch at the tip of Cape Brett, reached by boat tour from Paihia. Many tours pass through the cave at high tide and the trip out takes about 90 minutes each way, covering a good stretch of the open bay.

• Cape Brett Walkway: A two-day return walk along a ridgeline to the lighthouse at Cape Brett. The track is rated as difficult and passes through regenerating coastal forest with views over both sides of the peninsula. There is a hut at Cape Brett for overnight stays.

• Urupukapuka Island: The largest of the bay’s islands and accessible by passenger ferry. It has several walking tracks, good snorkelling at the reef, and a campsite operated by the Department of Conservation.

• Haruru Falls: A horseshoe waterfall about four kilometres upstream on the Waitangi River. It is accessible by a short walk through mangrove boardwalks from the Treaty Grounds car park.

• Kerikeri: A short drive from Paihia with the Stone Store, Kemp House, and Rewa’s Village, a reconstruction of a pre-European Maori village on the banks of the Kerikeri inlet.

Where to Eat

The bay has a range of eating options from simple fish and chip takeaways to more considered restaurant meals. A few points worth noting:

The Duke of Marlborough Hotel in Russell has a restaurant on the waterfront that is reliable for a sit-down meal. The fish is usually local and the setting looks over the harbour.

Paihia’s waterfront has several cafes that open early and handle the pre-tour crowd well. For a full meal, the options along Williams Road are a better bet than the strip closest to the wharf, which is geared toward passing foot traffic.

If you are self-catering, the Kerikeri farmers market runs on Sunday mornings and stocks local produce, including citrus, avocados, olive oil, and honey from Northland farms.

Where to Stay

Accommodation in the bay splits between Paihia and Russell, with a smaller number of options on the surrounding farmland and islands.

Paihia has the widest range covering backpacker hostels, motels, and mid-range hotels. It suits visitors who want early access to tour departures and do not mind a busy waterfront environment during the summer school holidays.

Russell is smaller and the accommodation there tends toward bed and breakfasts and a small number of self-contained cottages. It is the right choice for visitors who want a quieter base.

For a more remote stay, the Department of Conservation campsites on Urupukapuka Island and at Otehei Bay allow you to wake up on the water.

Activities and Tips

Sailing: Several operators in Paihia offer day sailing trips across the bay. The longer tours reach the outer islands and include snorkelling stops. Bareboat charter is available for those with the necessary qualifications.

Diving and snorkelling: The bay has kelp forests, rocky reefs, and wreck sites. The Rainbow Warrior, sunk by French secret service agents in 1985 in Auckland and later relocated to the bay, is one of the more unusual dive sites in the country.

Kayaking: The mangrove waterways near Waitangi and the sheltered coves around the islands work well for sea kayaking. Rental is available from Paihia.

Fishing: The bay is productive for snapper, kingfish, and kahawai. Charter boats operate from Paihia and Russell, and land-based fishing from the shore and the islands is also popular.

Cycling: The Twin Coast Cycle Trail connects the Bay of Islands to the Hokianga Harbour on the west coast in a two to three day ride. The trail passes through farm and forest country and is well graded.

Practical notes: Summer in the bay runs from December through February and this is the busiest period, with accommodation booking out weeks in advance. March and April bring quieter conditions, lower prices, and water that is still warm enough for swimming. Winter is mild compared to the rest of New Zealand but rainfall increases from June onward. The drive from Auckland takes around three hours via State Highway 1 and the Brynderwyn Hills. InterCity coaches run a daily service from Auckland to Paihia.