Bagan
Exploring the Ancient Wonders of Bagan
Spread across the dry central plains of Myanmar, Bagan is one of the most remarkable archaeological sites in Southeast Asia. Between the 9th and 13th centuries, the kings of the Pagan Empire constructed more than 10,000 religious monuments here. Around 3,500 of those survive today – pagodas, temples, and stupas rising from red-earth fields, their silhouettes most dramatic at dawn when mist rolls in from the Ayeyarwady River. Bagan was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2019, a recognition long overdue for a place of such extraordinary scale and spiritual significance.
Getting There and Getting Around
Most visitors fly into Nyaung-U Airport from Yangon or Mandalay. Buses and overnight trains from Mandalay are slower but far cheaper. Once you arrive, the main ways to get around are:
- E-bikes: Electric bicycles are the most popular option. They are quiet, cheap to hire by the day, and let you pick your own route through the temple fields.
- Horse carts: A slower but atmospheric alternative, particularly for the central Old Bagan area.
- Taxis and tuk-tuks: Useful for longer day trips such as Mount Popa.
The three main zones – Old Bagan, New Bagan, and Nyaung-U – are spread over roughly 40 square kilometres, so some form of transport is essential.
Where to Stay
Bagan Thiripyitsaya Sanctuary Resort sits on the west bank of the Ayeyarwady River in Old Bagan. Rooms face the water, and the sunsets over the river from here are exceptional. The price point is high, but the setting justifies it for a special occasion.
Bagan Lodge occupies a quiet corner of Old Bagan within easy cycling distance of the major temples. The teak-wood buildings and landscaped gardens give it a colonial-era character that fits the surroundings well.
Hotel@Tharabar Gate stands just inside the old city walls near the historic Tharabar Gate, one of the few remaining original structures from the 9th century. Rooms are comfortable and the location means the major temples are walkable at sunrise before the crowds arrive.
Budget travellers will find a good range of guesthouses in Nyaung-U, which is also where most of the practical amenities are clustered.
Where to Eat
Burmese cuisine draws on Indian, Chinese, and Mon influences and is more varied than many visitors expect. A few reliable spots in the Bagan area:
Aye Yar Myanmar Restaurant is a long-standing local favourite for traditional Burmese food. The mohinga – a fish-based noodle broth considered Myanmar’s national dish – is worth ordering first. The menu also features shan noodles, coconut chicken curry, and a range of tea-leaf salads.
Mingalabar Bagan operates a rooftop dining area with open views across the temple plains. Dishes lean traditional, and the kitchen uses local ingredients. Sundown from the rooftop, with pagoda silhouettes in the distance, makes for an unhurried meal.
Nyaung-U Market area has a cluster of small restaurants and teahouses near the market itself. These are the best places to eat cheaply and watch local life move at its own pace. Order fried rice, curry with rice and sides, or whatever is cooking that day.
Things to Do and See
The Temple Plains
The sheer number of monuments in Bagan is difficult to process on arrival. Start with a few standout sites and let the rest reveal themselves as you cycle between them.
Ananda Temple is among the most complete and most visited. Built in 1105 during the reign of King Kyanzittha, it is a working place of worship as well as a monument. Four standing Buddha images face outward from the central cube, each around 9 metres tall, and the whitewashed exterior gleams in the afternoon sun.
Shwesandaw Pagoda is a stepped pyramid-style stupa that was historically one of the prime sunrise and sunset viewing points. Access to the upper terraces has been restricted following earthquake damage in 2016, but the structure itself and the surrounding area remain worth visiting.
Thatbyinnyu Temple is the tallest structure in the Bagan plain at around 61 metres. Its two-storey design was innovative for its time and influenced later temple construction across the region.
Sulamani Temple, built in 1183, is considered one of the finest examples of late Pagan architecture. The exterior is covered in intricate carvings and the interior retains fragments of original murals.
Beyond these well-known sites, the real pleasure of Bagan is finding smaller, unmarked temples along dirt tracks between fields. Many are unlocked and unguarded. Removing shoes before entering remains the correct practice at all of them.
Hot Air Balloon Rides at Sunrise
Balloon flights over the Bagan plain at sunrise are one of Myanmar’s most celebrated travel experiences. Seeing thousands of temples emerge from the early mist below, bathed in low orange light, is difficult to describe adequately. Several operators run flights during the cooler season, broadly October through April. Flights last around 45 minutes to an hour and need to be booked in advance, particularly during the high season.
Mount Popa Day Trip
About 50 kilometres south-east of Bagan, Mount Popa is an extinct volcanic plug rising 737 metres from the plain, topped by a monastery and a series of shrines. It is the spiritual home of the nat – Myanmar’s pre-Buddhist spirit beliefs, which have been woven into local religious practice for centuries. The climb involves 777 steps and the attention of many resident monkeys. The views from the top over the surrounding plain are wide and clear on a good day.
Nyaung-U Market
The local market in Nyaung-U runs daily and is the main hub for fresh produce, spices, lacquerware, and everyday goods. It is busiest in the early morning and gives a grounded sense of daily life away from the temple sites. The lacquerware sold here and throughout Bagan is among Myanmar’s most distinctive crafts – the technique involves layering bamboo or wood with natural lacquer over many weeks, and the quality varies widely.
Irrawaddy River
The Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River runs along the western edge of the Bagan plain. Boat trips on the river range from short sunset cruises to longer journeys toward Mandalay. The riverbanks are lined with fishing villages, ox carts, and the occasional ferry crossing, and the pace on the water is a useful counterpoint to a day spent cycling between temples.
Practical Tips
Heat and sun protection: Bagan is in Myanmar’s dry zone and can reach 40C or higher in the hot season (March to May). Cover up, carry water, and start temple visits early when temperatures are lower and the light is better for photography.
Dress modestly: Shoulders and knees should be covered when entering temples and pagodas. Shoes must be removed. Carry a bag for your footwear as the ground can be hot underfoot.
The Bagan Archaeological Zone pass: An entry fee is charged for the archaeological zone. Keep the receipt as it may be checked at certain sites.
Currency: Myanmar’s kyat is the local currency. ATMs are available in Nyaung-U, but availability can be unreliable. Carry enough cash, especially if travelling further afield. Money exchange in Yangon or Mandalay before arrival is advisable.
SIM cards: A local SIM with a data plan is inexpensive and widely available. Pick one up at the airport in Yangon if arriving by air.
Local guides: Hiring a local guide for a day or half day adds significant depth to a visit. Many have detailed knowledge of individual temples, the history of the Pagan period, and ongoing conservation work. Rates are reasonable and the conversation makes the experience considerably richer.
Best time to visit: The cool dry season from November to February is the most comfortable. October and March are shoulder months with fewer crowds. The hot season is harsh but prices drop sharply. The rainy season (June to September) sees some monuments partly inaccessible and balloon flights suspended.
Bagan rewards patience. The temples that tend to stay with visitors longest are often not the ones in the guidebooks but the ones stumbled upon at dusk, alone, at the end of a red-dust track somewhere between the river and the plain.