Ayutthaya, Thailand: A Former Capital That Was Once Larger Than London

At its 17th-century peak, Ayutthaya was one of the largest cities in the world, with a population estimated at around 200,000 people – larger than London at the time – and resident diplomatic missions from China, Japan, Persia, Portugal, and the Netherlands. Burmese forces sacked it in 1767 after a 14-month siege, melted down what gold they could carry, and destroyed the rest. The ruins of that former glory form a UNESCO World Heritage Site spread across an island at the confluence of three rivers, roughly 80 km north of Bangkok.

The Bangkok train to Ayutthaya takes under two hours and costs about 20 baht for third class. A day trip is entirely possible; an overnight stay gives you the early morning market atmosphere and access to the ruins before the group tours arrive.

Places to Visit

Wat Mahathat is famous for the stone Buddha head entwined in the roots of a Bodhi tree – the most photographed image from the site. The tree grew around the head, probably cut from a statue during the 1767 sacking. The main prang collapsed long ago but the base and surrounding structures give a clear sense of the original scale.

Wat Phra Sri Sanphet once held a 16-metre gold-covered Buddha statue that Burmese forces melted down. The three restored chedis that remain are the iconic Ayutthaya image.

Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, southeast of the island, was built to commemorate a military victory over Burma. Its large chedi and reclining Buddha are among the most photographed in the region.

Bang Pa-In Royal Palace, 20 km south, is a summer retreat of Thai kings from the 17th century onward, mixing Thai, Chinese, and European architectural styles including a striking Chinese pavilion over a lake. Worth a half-day addition.

Getting Around

Bicycles are the most practical way to move between sites on the island – widely available for rent near the main guesthouses, roads flat, traffic manageable outside rush hours. For sites outside the island, a rented motorbike or hired driver is more sensible.

Where to Eat

Nai Bang Pla Roi Fai specialises in freshwater fish in central Thai style – whole grilled snakehead fish, river prawn curry, spicy catfish salad. Talad Kao Night Market on U-Thong Road fills each evening with vendors selling grilled meats, papaya salad, mango sticky rice. Hua Raw Market near the Pridi Damrong Bridge runs from 5am with locals buying noodle soups and Chinese-style pastries; this is the market worth waking up for.

Practical Tips

All temple sites require covered shoulders and knees. Late afternoon light turns the laterite and brick prangs a deep amber; arriving around 4pm lets you explore before the light fades without the midday heat. November through February is the best season. March through May exceeds 38 degrees Celsius by midday.

Ayutthaya rewards patience. Walking through the remains of its temples offers a direct encounter with a civilisation of extraordinary reach, and the scale of what was lost in 1767 becomes clearer with each site visited.