Australian Outback

Climbing Uluru has been closed since October 2019. The Anangu, the traditional owners of the land, had been requesting this for decades; their request is that the rock is not climbed because it holds deep spiritual significance. The climb closure is the change most relevant to planning a current visit. What remains, and what most visitors find more rewarding anyway, is the base walk: a 10-kilometre circumnavigation of Uluru at ground level that reveals the surface textures, waterholes, cave paintings, and geological detail that the climb masked.

The Red Centre

Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park in the Northern Territory is the core of any Outback itinerary. Uluru stands 348 metres above the flat surrounding plain, though 85 percent of the rock is underground; the visible formation is the tip of a vast conglomerate. Kata Tjuta’s 36 domes to the west are a different formation and frequently undervalued; the Valley of the Winds walk through them (7.4 kilometres, three to four hours) takes you through narrow gorges between the domes and is one of the best walks in the park.

The Yulara resort town (Ayers Rock Resort) near the park is the access base. Accommodation ranges from the luxury of Longitude 131° tented camp (direct Uluru views, AUD 1,200 to 2,500 per night all-inclusive) to the Ayers Rock campground. Book well ahead; the remote location means prices reflect monopoly dynamics.

Kings Canyon (Watarrka National Park), 300 kilometres northeast of Uluru by road, has canyon walls rising 270 metres above the valley floor. The 6-kilometre Kings Canyon Rim Walk takes three to four hours; start before 9am in hot months to be above the canyon before midday heat builds.

Kakadu

Kakadu National Park in the Top End (Darwin is the access city) is the other essential Outback destination: 20,000 square kilometres of wetlands, escarpments, gorges, and ancient Aboriginal rock art galleries dating back over 20,000 years. The Burrunguy (Nourlangie) and Ubirr rock art sites are open to visitors; the paintings at Ubirr at sunset, looking out over the Arnhem Land escarpment, have a specific quality that is hard to describe without being there.

The wet season (November through April) floods many roads and closes some areas but brings dramatic waterfalls. The dry season (May through October) is when most visitors come and the billabongs concentrate both wildlife and photographers.

Practical Notes

Heat is the management challenge, not the main event. May through September is the practical window for most of the Red Centre; October and April are transitional. June and July are pleasant in temperature (15 to 25 degrees Celsius). If you go in summer, plan activities for early morning and late afternoon and accept that midday is for indoor respite. Carry at least three litres of water per person for any walk. A VHF/UHF radio or satellite communicator is worth having for remote driving.