Asturias, Spain

Asturias never became part of the Moorish conquest of Iberia. The Asturian kingdom, founded in the 730s after the Battle of Covadonga, was the starting point of the eight-century Reconquista. That historical isolation helps explain why the region is greener, cooler, and more internally coherent than the Spain most tourists visit. It also has the best cider in Spain, which it pours from a height to aerate it.

The Picos de Europa

The Picos de Europa national park, shared with neighbouring Cantabria and León, is the primary outdoor draw. The Garganta del Cares gorge walk (about 11 kilometres one way, largely flat, carved into vertical limestone walls above the Cares River) is the classic route: one of the most dramatic gorge walks in Europe and accessible to anyone with reasonable fitness. Start from Caín on the southern side for the better approach light.

Cangas de Onís, a small town with a medieval bridge, is the main gateway from the northern/Asturian side. The cable car at Fuente Dé (accessible from Potes in Cantabria, about an hour from Cangas) rises 800 metres in a few minutes to a high plateau for views toward the highest peaks.

Covadonga

The Chapel of Our Lady of Covadonga perched against limestone cliffs marks the site of the 722 battle where the Asturian kingdom was founded. The pilgrimage complex above it includes two alpine lakes, the Lagos de Covadonga, reachable by road (or a very long walk). In summer the road up is controlled by shuttle buses only; check in advance.

Oviedo

The regional capital is compact, walkable, and undervisited by tourists. The cathedral’s Cámara Santa (Holy Chamber) is a pre-Romanesque structure from the 9th century containing significant medieval goldsmithing. El Fontan market on the main square sells produce and local cheeses from Tuesday through Saturday.

What to Eat

Fabada asturiana is the definitive dish: white beans (fabes) slow-cooked with chorizo, morcilla, and panceta. It is winter food and is heavier than summer diners sometimes expect. The sidra (cider) culture requires explanation: Asturian cider is flat and slightly acidic, poured from height (escanciando) to aerate it into the glass, consumed quickly in a small pour and then repeated. You eat with it: Cabrales blue cheese from the mountains, fresh percebes (goose barnacles), and whatever the sidrería’s kitchen is cooking.

Getting There

Fly to Asturias Airport near Avilés (direct flights from several Spanish cities; limited international options) or to Bilbao (2.5 hours by road). A rental car is necessary for the Picos. Oviedo and Gijón are accessible by train from Madrid (about 4 hours on a good connection).