Arthur’s Seat, Edinburgh

Arthur’s Seat is an extinct volcanic crag sitting 251 metres above sea level in the middle of Edinburgh, a 15-minute walk from the Royal Mile. It looks like a proper Highland hill, and in most weather it behaves like one. Bringing the hill with you into a trip to Edinburgh is the most underrated thing you can do – the view from the summit over the city, the Firth of Forth, the Pentland Hills, and on clear days as far as the Trossachs, is the kind of perspective that 30 minutes of actual effort produces. Edinburgh from Princes Street is Edinburgh as it presents itself; Edinburgh from Arthur’s Seat is Edinburgh as it actually is.

Holyrood Park, which contains the hill, covers 263 acres and is a royal park. Free to enter at all times, no booking required, no entrance fee.

The Routes

The Main Route (Red) from Holyrood Palace takes about 90 minutes as a circular walk including the summit. It approaches from the south with a more gradual gradient and is the least arduous option.

The Green Route from Dunsapie Loch on the east side is the most direct but the steepest. If you want to simply get to the top and back quickly, go this way.

Salisbury Crags – the dramatic basalt cliff face along the western edge of the park – can be traversed via the Radical Road, which cuts along the face of the crags with good views and a more level gradient. Worthwhile even if you don’t summit.

Avoid the hill in fog, low cloud, or icy conditions. The summit path is slippery when wet. Bring layers regardless of the weather at street level in Edinburgh, which can be entirely different from conditions 250 metres up with wind off the Firth.

The Rest of Holyrood Park

Duddingston Loch, a small wildfowl sanctuary on the east side of the park, is one of the less-visited parts of Edinburgh – a loch with ducks and geese visible from the shore, backed by the hill. The village of Duddingston below has the Sheep Heid Inn, reputedly one of the oldest pubs in Scotland (first licensed in 1360, though the current building is substantially younger).

Holyrood Palace at the park’s northwestern edge is the official Scottish residence of the British monarchy. The historic apartments associated with Mary, Queen of Scots are the most interesting section; the ruins of Holyrood Abbey on the grounds predate the palace itself. Open to visitors when the monarch is not in residence.

Edinburgh

Arthur’s Seat is the right way to start an Edinburgh visit, not the last thing on the list. The view from the summit shows the layout of the city in a way that makes subsequent street-level navigation significantly more intuitive.

The Royal Mile from Edinburgh Castle down to Holyrood Palace is the tourist spine. The closes (narrow lanes off the main street) contain the most interesting buildings. The Grassmarket below the castle was Edinburgh’s execution site and is now a good bar district. Bruntsfield and Stockbridge are the neighbourhoods that feel most like where Edinburgh actually lives – good independent restaurants and cafes without the tourist prices. The Scottish National Gallery on the Mound is free and has a serious collection.

Practical Notes

Weather layers and proper footwear for the hill – not flip-flops, not fashion trainers. The wind at the summit is real. Allow 1.5-2 hours for the round trip at a comfortable pace. Dogs are welcome on all routes. The park is open at all hours.