Arequipa, Peru

Arequipa earned the nickname “White City” from its buildings of white sillar stone, a volcanic rock quarried from the flanks of El Misti, the 5,822-metre perfect-cone volcano that dominates the city’s skyline. The stone’s specific texture and colour – pale grey-white in shadow, almost luminous in direct light – gives the Historic Centre a coherence that colonial cities in more varied materials rarely achieve. The Historic Centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Arequipa sits at 2,335 metres. If you’re travelling from sea level, allow at least two days before anything strenuous. Stay hydrated, rest on arrival, and avoid alcohol on the first day.

What to See

The Santa Catalina Monastery was built in 1579 and has been a functioning convent ever since. Architecturally it is a city within the city: a complex of cloistered streets, private cells, wash areas, and communal spaces covering 20,000 square metres. Nuns still live in the private section. The public section – which takes 2-3 hours to explore properly – is the most interesting religious building in southern Peru and among the best in the country. Open Monday through Saturday 10am to 5pm (last entry 4pm); Tuesday and Wednesday nights have atmospheric lantern-lit openings with fewer visitors.

Museo Santuarios Andinos holds Juanita, the “Ice Maiden” – the preserved body of a 12-14 year old Inca girl sacrificed on Mount Ampato around 1450 CE, found in 1995 by climber Johan Reinhard. One of the best-preserved Inca mummies ever discovered, she is displayed at controlled temperature alongside other Inca ritual objects. A genuinely important museum; allow 90 minutes.

Plaza de Armas is the city’s main square, ringed by arcaded colonial buildings including the baroque Cathedral (interior worth entering). The Yanahuara neighbourhood viewpoint above the city gives the best angle on El Misti and the city below – best at sunset.

Colca Canyon

Arequipa is the gateway to the Colca Canyon, twice as deep as the Grand Canyon. Day trips from Arequipa leave early (around 3am) and reach the Cruz del Cóndor viewpoint by dawn for the morning thermal flights of Andean condors – the largest flying birds in the world with wingspans exceeding 3 metres. The condors rise on morning thermals from the canyon floor; an early April morning with a dozen condors circling is a specific experience. Overnight tours allow more time and better recovery from the altitude. Acclimatise in Arequipa for at least two days before the canyon.

Food

Arequipa has a distinct regional cuisine. Rocoto relleno – a large spicy rocoto pepper filled with ground beef, cheese, and spices, baked until tender – is the signature dish. Cuy (roasted guinea pig) is a staple Andean protein, served crispy with potatoes and corn. The picantería restaurants in the Yanahuara area are the right setting for both.

Staying

Casa Andina Premium Arequipa near the Plaza is a reliable mid-range option in a colonial building. Hotel Casona Solar has converted rooms in a historic mansion with a good café. Two to three days is the right allocation for the city plus Colca Canyon.