Ararat: Two Peaks, Two Countries, One Mountain’s Worth of History

Mount Ararat (Agri Dagi in Turkish) stands on the Turkish side of the Turkey-Armenia border as two volcanic peaks: Great Ararat at 5,137 metres and Little Ararat at 3,896 metres. For Armenians, the mountain is the national symbol – visible from Yerevan on clear days, depicted on the coat of arms – yet unreachable across a border that has been closed since 1993. This is one of the more poignant geopolitical facts in the South Caucasus.

The mountain last erupted in 1840, triggering a massive earthquake and landslide. It is now dormant. Its permanent snowline begins around 4,200 metres and the summit is covered by an ice cap year-round.

Climbing Ararat

The climbing season runs from mid-June to mid-October; July and August offer the most stable conditions. All ascents must be made through a Turkish-registered guiding company – independent climbing is not permitted. Permits cost approximately $50 USD per person and must be applied for weeks in advance.

The standard route approaches from Dogubayazit to the south. Climbers use a base camp around 3,200 metres and a high camp around 4,200 metres before making a summit push. The technical difficulty is relatively low on the standard route – primarily a high-altitude trek over snow and ice in the upper section. Crampons, ice axe, and trekking poles are standard equipment. Group climbs start from around 490-600 USD per person including permit, guide, and camp accommodation. Altitude sickness is the primary risk; plan acclimatisation days seriously.

Ishak Pasha Palace

East of Dogubayazit, Ishak Pasha Sarayi sits on a rocky outcrop at 1,900 metres with a direct view of Ararat. Construction began in the late 17th century under the local Kurdish chieftain Ishak Pasha. The complex combines Ottoman, Persian, Georgian, and Armenian architectural elements and includes a mosque, harem quarters, a dungeon, a mausoleum, and reception halls. Well-preserved and open to visitors. Sunrise and late afternoon light are the best photography conditions.

Khor Virap Monastery, Armenia

Khor Virap stands on the Armenian side of the Araks River, offering arguably the most striking view of Mount Ararat from Armenian territory. The monastery dates to the 7th century and was built where Saint Gregory the Illuminator was imprisoned for 13 years before converting King Tiridates III to Christianity in AD 301. Visitors can descend into the underground pit where Gregory was held. On clear days, Ararat’s white summit rises directly behind the monastery walls. About 40 kilometres south of Yerevan, easily reached by road, free entry.

Areni and Noravank, Armenia

The village of Areni near the Vayots Dzor wine region contains the Areni-1 cave, where archaeologists in 2007 found the world’s oldest known winery, dating to approximately 4,000 BCE. The cave can be visited. The Areni grape variety makes full-bodied reds that can be purchased directly from local producers.

A short drive through a narrow limestone gorge from Areni, Noravank Monastery is one of Armenia’s finest medieval religious complexes. The 14th-century Surb Astvatsatsin church features a narrow external staircase leading to an upper chapel. The setting against sheer red rock walls that glow at sunset is among the most photographed in Armenia.

Practical Notes

The Turkey-Armenia land border remains closed (since 1993). Travellers moving between the two countries must fly or travel via Georgia or Iran. Turkey offers e-visas online; Armenia has a relatively open visa policy with many nationalities receiving visa-free entry or visas on arrival. Cash in Turkish lira (Turkey) and Armenian dram (Armenia); card acceptance is limited outside major cities.