Exploring the Twelve Apostles and the Great Ocean Road

The Great Ocean Road stretches for 243 kilometres along the south-western coast of Victoria, and its most celebrated landmark is the Twelve Apostles – a series of limestone stacks rising from the Southern Ocean just off the Port Campbell coastline. Carved over millions of years by relentless waves and wind, these formations stand up to 45 metres tall. The constant erosion means the landscape is always changing; at the time of writing, eight stacks remain visible from the main viewing platforms, and new formations continue to emerge as the cliffs recede.

The geology behind the stacks is worth understanding before you arrive. The limestone cliffs along this stretch of the Great Ocean Road were originally formed from the accumulated remains of marine organisms. As the sea wore into the softer rock, caves developed, then arches, and eventually free-standing stacks. The same process is ongoing at every headland along this coast, making the entire stretch an open-air lesson in coastal geomorphology.

Where to Visit

The Twelve Apostles Marine National Park is managed by Parks Victoria and entry to the viewing platforms is free. The car park off the Great Ocean Road feeds into a short tunnel beneath the road that brings you out onto two main clifftop viewing platforms. The eastern platform tends to be less crowded and offers a different angle on the stacks. Arrive at sunrise for the most dramatic light and the smallest crowds; sunset is equally photogenic but draws larger numbers.

Gibson Steps sit about two kilometres east of the Twelve Apostles visitor centre. A concrete staircase of 86 steps leads down to a wide beach at the base of the cliffs. From the sand you can look back up at the sheer 70-metre cliff faces and appreciate the scale that is harder to grasp from above. Swimming here is not recommended due to strong currents and unpredictable surf.

Loch Ard Gorge is a sheltered inlet named after the iron clipper that wrecked nearby in 1878. Of the 54 people on board, only two survived – a young Irish immigrant named Eva Carmichael and a crew apprentice, Tom Pearce. Interpretive boards at the gorge tell the story in detail. The gorge itself is accessible via a short walk from the car park and opens onto a calm sandy beach enclosed by towering limestone walls. The Island Archway and Muttonbird Island are also visible from the cliff walks in this area.

London Bridge stands about three kilometres west of Loch Ard Gorge. In January 1990, the seaward arch of this natural double-arch formation collapsed without warning, stranding two visitors on the isolated pillar until they were rescued by helicopter. What remains is a single arching span jutting from the cliff, and it offers a clear illustration of how quickly these formations can change.

The Arch and Bay of Islands Coastal Park further west receive far fewer visitors than the Twelve Apostles but reward those who make the detour. The Bay of Islands contains dozens of smaller stacks and islands, and the clifftop walks here give sweeping views without the crowds.

Cape Otway Lightstation sits at the end of a 12-kilometre sealed side road off the Great Ocean Road, southwest of Apollo Bay. Operating since 1848, it is Australia’s oldest surviving mainland lighthouse. The site includes a telegraph station, an air-sea rescue hut from World War II, and underground tunnels. The road leading to the lighthouse passes through old-growth forest where koalas are frequently spotted in the manna gum trees – often in large numbers.

Kennett River is a small settlement roughly halfway between Lorne and Apollo Bay. The grey gum trees lining Grey River Road behind the town hold some of the most reliably accessible koalas on the entire Great Ocean Road. Crimson rosellas and sulphur-crested cockatoos are also common here.

Port Campbell is the small township closest to the Twelve Apostles, with a protected boat ramp and calm beach that contrasts sharply with the exposed clifftops a short drive away. The Port Campbell National Park visitor centre here provides detailed information on all the coastal sites in the area.

What to Eat

The towns along the Great Ocean Road range from small roadside stops to larger centres like Lorne and Apollo Bay, and the food options reflect that variety.

Apollo Bay has the widest range of dining options along the western stretch of the road. The town has a working fishing harbour, and fresh crayfish and other seafood are available directly from local operators, particularly on weekends. Several cafes and bakeries line the main street.

Lorne is the largest town on the eastern section of the road and has a well-established cafe culture. The main street along Mountjoy Parade has a good range of options from fish and chips to sit-down restaurants, and the town is popular enough year-round to support reliable quality.

Port Campbell has a handful of cafes, a pub, and a general store. For a longer sit-down meal, the pub is the most consistent option in town and serves standard Australian pub food with local seafood on the menu.

If you are making a full-day drive, packing food is a practical option. Long stretches between towns mean roadside stops can be few and far between, particularly between Princetown and Peterborough.

Where to Stay

Accommodation along the Great Ocean Road ranges from campgrounds inside the national parks to motels and holiday houses in the larger towns.

Port Campbell offers the most convenient base for exploring the Twelve Apostles and the surrounding sites. Motels, caravan parks, and self-contained holiday rentals are all available, and the town is quiet in the evenings outside peak summer season.

Apollo Bay is a good base for those wanting to explore both the Otway Ranges and the western surf beaches. It has more accommodation options than Port Campbell and a larger range of services.

Lorne suits those who want ready access to Erskine Falls, surf beaches, and a wider selection of restaurants and shops. It is about two and a half hours from the Twelve Apostles, so best suited to a multi-day itinerary that starts from Melbourne.

Camping at Port Campbell National Park is available through the Parks Victoria booking system. Powered and unpowered sites exist at several locations within the park. Booking well in advance is essential during the summer school holidays and Easter.

Activities

The Great Ocean Walk is a 104-kilometre multi-day trail that runs from Apollo Bay to the Twelve Apostles. It can be walked in sections as day walks or completed over six to eight days as a continuous trek. Parks Victoria manages the trail and the designated campgrounds along it. The final section approaching the Twelve Apostles from the east provides a perspective on the stacks that most road visitors never see.

Surfing along the Great Ocean Road is best suited to experienced surfers. Bells Beach, a short detour off the road near Torquay, hosts the Rip Curl Pro each Easter and is one of Australia’s most recognised surf breaks. Johanna Beach, south of Lavers Hill, is a more remote option with powerful and consistent surf. Point Addis near Anglesea is a good option for intermediate surfers when conditions are suitable.

Hang gliding and paragliding from the cliffs near Aireys Inlet are popular when winds are favourable. Several operators offer tandem flights for those without their own equipment.

Otway Fly Treetop Adventures sits within the Otway Ranges rainforest and offers elevated walkways and a zipline through the forest canopy. It is located near Beech Forest, roughly 30 kilometres inland from Apollo Bay.

Erskine Falls, accessible from Lorne, drops 30 metres into a fern-filled gully. The main lookout is a short walk from the car park; a longer path leads down to the base of the falls.

Whale watching is a seasonal activity along this coast. Southern right whales and humpback whales migrate through the waters off the Great Ocean Road between May and September. The clifftops near the Twelve Apostles and the lookout at Logans Beach in Warrnambool (at the western end of the road) offer good vantage points.

Practical Tips

• The Great Ocean Road runs in a west-to-east direction if you are starting from Melbourne. Many visitors drive it in the reverse direction (east to west, i.e., from Torquay toward Warrnambool) to keep the ocean-side views directly accessible from the passenger window rather than requiring lane changes to stop.
• Fuel up in Apollo Bay before continuing west. There are fewer service stations in the stretch between Apollo Bay and Warrnambool, and prices can be higher at isolated stops.
• The road between Lorne and Apollo Bay is winding and narrow in sections. Allow more travel time than mapping apps suggest, particularly if you plan to stop frequently.
• The weather on this coast can change quickly. Conditions can go from clear to cold and windy within an hour, so carrying a wind layer and waterproof jacket is sensible regardless of the forecast.
• Mobile phone coverage is patchy through the Otway Ranges and along parts of the western coastline. Download offline maps before departing if you are navigating without a fixed GPS unit.
• During summer and Easter, the Twelve Apostles car park fills early. Arriving before 8am or after 5pm avoids the peak congestion and improves the light for photography.
• The helicopter tours that operate from the Twelve Apostles car park provide a different perspective on the stacks and the surrounding cliff system, and the flights are short enough to fit into a morning visit.