Angkor Wat, Cambodia
Angkor Wat, Cambodia: A Complete Visitor’s Guide
Introduction
Few places on earth match the scale and ambition of Angkor Wat. Built in the early 12th century under King Suryavarman II, the temple was originally dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu before gradually transitioning to Theravada Buddhist use. It is the largest religious monument ever constructed, covering more than 162 hectares within its moat alone, and is the centerpiece of the wider Angkor Archaeological Park – a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1992.
The temple sits about 7 kilometers north of Siem Reap in northwestern Cambodia and is accessible via National Road 6. Most visitors base themselves in Siem Reap, which has grown substantially over the past two decades and now offers accommodation and dining at every price point.
Spending a single day at Angkor Wat is possible but leaves most visitors wanting more. A three-day pass allows time to visit the major temple groups without rushing, and a seven-day pass suits anyone who wants to explore the more remote sites and soak in the atmosphere at quieter hours.
When to Go
The dry season runs from November through April. Temperatures are cooler from November to February, generally staying between 20 and 30 degrees Celsius, and the air is less humid. This is the peak tourist period, so the main temples are busy, especially around sunrise.
March and April are hotter – sometimes exceeding 38 degrees – but crowds thin out and photography conditions in the late afternoon are excellent.
The wet season, May to October, brings heavy afternoon downpours but also lush green vegetation, full moats and far fewer tourists. Temple access is unaffected by rain for most of the season, and many photographers prefer the dramatic skies and reflected light on flooded causeways.
Getting Around
Tuk-tuk: The most common way to get between temples. Drivers wait outside every hotel and at the main park entrance. Negotiate a full-day rate before setting off, and consider hiring the same driver for multiple days if you get along well – they often know quieter routes and less-visited spots.
Bicycle: Flat roads connect most of the major temple groups, and cycling is a rewarding way to travel at your own pace. Hire shops are common in central Siem Reap.
Electric bike and scooter: Increasingly available and useful for covering longer distances to outlying temples such as Beng Mealea or Koh Ker without relying on a driver.
Private car: Worth considering for full-day trips to remote sites, especially during the rainy season when roads can be waterlogged.
The Temples
Angkor Wat
The main temple rewards multiple visits. Arrive before dawn to watch sunrise over the central towers reflecting in the western reflecting pool. Return in the afternoon when the crowds have thinned and the light hits the sandstone from a different angle. Spend time with the bas-reliefs on the third gallery, which stretch for over 800 meters and depict scenes from Hindu mythology including the Churning of the Ocean of Milk and the Battle of Kurukshetra. Climb to the central sanctuary (queues can be long; go early or late in the day) for views across the surrounding forest.
Angkor Thom
Angkor Thom is a walled city roughly 9 square kilometers in area. Enter through the South Gate, where a causeway is flanked by rows of devas and asuras pulling the body of a serpent. The Bayon temple at the city’s center is immediately recognizable for its 216 giant stone faces carved on 54 towers. Spend at least two hours here – the faces look different at every hour of the day. Also within the Angkor Thom walls are the Baphuon (currently partly under restoration), Phimeanakas, the Elephant Terrace and the Terrace of the Leper King.
Ta Prohm
Originally a Buddhist monastery and university, Ta Prohm was deliberately left partly unrestored so that the relationship between nature and architecture remains visible. Enormous silk-cotton and strangler fig trees have grown through the stonework over centuries, their roots splaying across galleries and towers. The temple is popular and can feel crowded mid-morning; aim to visit early or in the late afternoon.
Banteay Srei
Located about 38 kilometers northeast of Siem Reap, Banteay Srei is smaller than the main temple groups but contains some of the finest stone carving at Angkor. The pink sandstone is intricately carved with floral patterns and narrative panels, and the level of detail is extraordinary. Allow half a day for the round trip.
Pre Rup
Pre Rup dates from the 10th century and sits at the eastern edge of the main Angkor complex. It is less visited than Angkor Wat or Ta Prohm and is a good place to watch the sunset. The brick and laterite construction has a rougher, more weathered quality than the later sandstone temples.
Beng Mealea
About 70 kilometers east of Siem Reap, Beng Mealea is largely unrestored and feels genuinely remote. Wooden walkways allow access through collapsed galleries and overgrown courtyards. Visitor numbers are low compared to the main park. Combine with a visit to Koh Ker, another 55 kilometers further, if you have a full day.
Where to Stay
Budget
Siem Reap has a well-established backpacker scene concentrated in the area around Pub Street and the Old Market. Guesthouses in this area offer clean double rooms with air conditioning at low prices. Many also have small pools and rooftop bars.
Mid-Range
Boutique hotels and small resorts occupy the streets around the Royal Gardens and along the Siem Reap River road. Many were built in colonial or traditional Khmer styles and offer a more relaxed atmosphere than the budget guesthouses without the higher prices of the luxury properties.
Luxury
Several international and independent luxury resorts are located on the outskirts of town, offering large grounds, multiple pools, spa facilities and fine dining. The area around Airport Road and the road to Angkor has the highest concentration of these properties.
Where to Eat
Street Food and Markets
The Old Market area in central Siem Reap has a concentration of food stalls, especially in the evening. Dishes to look for include amok (fish or chicken steamed in coconut milk and lemongrass inside a banana leaf), nom banh chok (rice noodles in a green herb and fish broth, traditionally eaten for breakfast), lok lak (stir-fried beef with lime and pepper dipping sauce) and bai sach chrouk (grilled pork over rice).
The Night Market, roughly a five-minute walk from the Old Market, has additional food and snack stalls alongside souvenir vendors.
Khmer Cuisine Restaurants
Marum is a social enterprise training restaurant that employs young Cambodians from disadvantaged backgrounds. The menu covers traditional Khmer recipes alongside some modern dishes, and the food is genuinely good. Booking ahead is advisable in peak season.
Cuisine Wat Damnak, run by French-trained chef Joannès Rivière, offers a set tasting menu using local Cambodian ingredients. It is one of the most regarded restaurants in the country and has appeared in multiple international best restaurant lists. Reservations are essential.
International Options
Central Siem Reap has a wide range of international restaurants including French, Italian, Japanese, Indian and a number of Western-style cafes. Quality varies considerably; the best are generally a short walk from the Old Market area.
Activities Beyond the Temples
Phare, the Cambodian Circus
Phare performs nightly in a big top near the airport road. The shows combine acrobatics, dance, music and storytelling, usually drawing on traditional Cambodian stories or more recent narratives about life during and after the Khmer Rouge period. Tickets should be booked in advance during peak season.
Cambodian Cultural Village
A large open-air museum on the airport road presenting traditional Cambodian architecture, dress and performance from different regions and ethnic communities. It is primarily oriented toward group tours but can be worthwhile for visitors who want context on Cambodian cultural diversity beyond the Angkor temples.
Tonle Sap Lake
The Tonle Sap is the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia and sits about 15 kilometers south of Siem Reap. Boat trips depart from Chong Kneas village to visit floating villages where entire communities live on water during the wet season. The experience is most dramatic from August to November when the lake is at its fullest.
Quad Biking
Several operators offer guided quad bike tours through rice paddies and villages around Siem Reap. The countryside around the city is flat and accessible, and riding through the rural landscape at dusk is a different kind of experience from the temple circuit.
Cooking Classes
Several restaurants and independent schools offer half-day and full-day Cambodian cooking classes that typically include a market visit followed by preparation of three or four traditional dishes. It is a practical way to learn about local ingredients and bring something concrete back from the trip.
Practical Tips
Entry passes: Angkor Archaeological Park passes are sold only at the official ticket office on the road to the temples. A one-day pass costs USD 37, three days USD 62 and seven days USD 72. Passes are checked at all temple entrances.
Opening hours: The park opens at 5am, which allows entry for sunrise. Most temples close at 5:30pm, though a few close earlier.
Dress code: Shoulders and knees must be covered to enter all temple sanctuaries. Lightweight long trousers and a t-shirt or light shirt are the most practical option. Scarves or sarongs sold at market stalls near the temples also work.
Sun and heat: Temperatures inside stone gallery corridors can be extreme by mid-morning. Carry at least one liter of water per person, apply sunscreen before setting out and consider a light hat. Rehydration salts are available at pharmacies throughout Siem Reap.
Photography: A dawn visit to Angkor Wat requires no special permit. Drone flying requires a permit from the Apsara Authority and is restricted in most areas of the park.
Local currency: Cambodia uses both US dollars and Cambodian riel. Most transactions in Siem Reap are priced in dollars. Having small denomination dollar bills is useful for tuk-tuk fares and market purchases. ATMs are widely available.
Getting to Siem Reap: The city has an international airport with direct connections to Bangkok, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Ho Chi Minh City and several Chinese cities. Overland buses run from Phnom Penh in around six hours on the improved highway.