Amalienborg: Four Palaces, One Courtyard, and the World’s Most Accessible Royal Family

Amalienborg is four Rococo palaces arranged around an octagonal cobbled courtyard, and the Danish royal family actually lives in two of them. This is worth stating plainly: when the royal standard flies over one of the palaces, Queen Mary and her family are in residence behind those windows. The complex was built in the 1750s by four different noble families, all working from the same architectural plan. When the original Christiansborg Palace burned down in 1794, the royal family moved into Amalienborg and has been here ever since.

The Changing of the Guard at noon is free and happens daily. The Royal Life Guard marches from their barracks near Rosenborg Castle through central Copenhagen streets to reach the palace courtyard at 12:00 precisely, which means you can watch the procession en route as well as the ceremony itself. This is the more interesting approach: position yourself on Gothersgade or around Kongens Nytorv and watch the regiment march past at street level before following them to the square.

The Museum

The Amalienborg Museum occupies the Christian VIII Palace and focuses on the Danish royal family from the 1860s to the present. The private apartments of three kings, preserved largely as they were in use, give an unexpectedly intimate view of royal domestic life. Frederick VIII’s study contains his actual desk, papers, and personal effects. The contrast between the formal state rooms and the private quarters is the best thing about the museum.

Admission in 2026: 125 kroner for adults, free for under-18s, included with the Copenhagen Card. Open daily 10am to 4pm, extended to 5pm in late summer. Timed entry slots are used; book online for peak summer dates.

The Surroundings

The Marble Church (Marmorkirken) stands directly opposite the palace courtyard entrance, its enormous copper dome a counterpoint to the Rococo facades. The interior is underwhelming compared with the exterior, but the dome itself can be climbed for views over Copenhagen’s skyline. Free entry to the church; small fee for dome access.

Nyhavn is a 10-minute walk southwest, and the harbour-front walk between Amalienborg and Nyhavn is one of the most pleasant in Copenhagen. The Amaliehaven garden on the waterfront directly below Amalienborg was a gift from the Maersk shipping company and has a good view back up toward the palace from the harbour edge.

Where to Eat

The best decision is to move slightly away from the palace immediately. Restaurant Schonnemann on Hauser Plads, about 15 minutes on foot, serves the definitive Copenhagen lunch: an extensive smørrebrød menu with herring, liver paste, roast beef, and every serious open-sandwich combination served with snaps. It has been here since 1877 and the quality has not declined in the intervening century and a half. Book ahead for lunch.

For something faster and cheaper, the Torvehallerne market halls at Israels Plads (15 minutes north) are the best food market in Copenhagen, with stalls selling fresh produce, prepared food, coffee, smørrebrød, and pastries at prices that do not require justification.

Where to Stay

The Nyhavn area has several good hotels including the 71 Nyhavn Hotel, which occupies two converted 1800s warehouse buildings with harbour views. Hotel d’Angleterre on Kongens Nytorv is the grand historic option, the kind of hotel where Danish royalty have stayed for ceremonies and state visits. More affordable options concentrate around the central station and Vesterbro; none of them is more than a 15-minute walk or a couple of metro stops from Amalienborg.

Practical Notes

Copenhagen is expensive by most comparisons. The Copenhagen Card (available for 24, 48, 72, or 120 hours) covers the museum, public transport including the metro, and over 80 attractions, and it pays for itself quickly if you are visiting several sites. The metro is the fastest way around the city; the system is modern, driverless, and runs 24 hours.