Altun Ha: The Maya City on Belize’s Beer Label

The largest jade carving in the ancient Maya world was found here in 1968, not at Chichen Itza or Palenque or Tikal. The 9.75-pound Jade Head, a portrait of the sun god Kinich Ahau with incised features and jade mosaic inlay, was excavated from the tomb of a high priest in the Temple of the Masonry Altars. It became so emblematic of Belize’s cultural identity that it was placed on the label of Belikin beer, the national beverage, where it remains. The original is kept in the vaults of Belize’s central bank rather than displayed; what you see in most exhibitions is a high-quality replica.

Altun Ha (the name means “rock water” in Yucatec Maya, referring to a nearby lagoon) flourished from around 200 BCE to 900 CE as a trading centre on the route between the Caribbean coast and the interior. Excavations since the 1960s have uncovered 26 structures in two main plazas and evidence of extensive trade connections – jade from Guatemala, obsidian from Mexico, shells from the Caribbean. The site covers about 250 hectares, though the excavated section visitors walk is considerably smaller.

Visiting the Site

Altun Ha is about 50 kilometres north of Belize City, accessible via the Northern Highway and then a short paved side road. The drive from Belize City takes around 45 minutes. Entry is BZD 10 per person (about USD 5). Open daily from 8am to 5pm.

The two main plazas hold the most significant structures. Plaza A contains administrative and residential buildings. Plaza B contains the Temple of the Sun God (Structure B-4), the largest building on site, from which most of the important finds including the Jade Head came. You can climb the main pyramid; the views from the top across the surrounding forest are good and the climb is straightforward.

The site is shaded by forest on most approaches, which matters in Belize’s heat. Bring insect repellent; mosquitoes are active. Morning visits before 11am are cooler and quieter.

As a Day Trip from Belize City

Altun Ha is the most accessible Maya site from Belize City, making it a practical half-day excursion. Tour operators from the city run regular morning trips for around USD 35 to 50 per person including transport. Independent visitors with a rental car or taxi can go and return at their own pace.

Combining Altun Ha with the Community Baboon Sanctuary (about 30 kilometres from Belize City in the opposite direction) makes a full day: howler monkeys at the sanctuary in the morning, ruins in the afternoon. The “baboons” in the name are actually the local term for howler monkeys, a Belizean linguistic quirk worth knowing before you arrive expecting primates from the African continent.

Belize City and Onwards

Belize City is the country’s commercial hub but not its most interesting destination. The Museum of Belize in a converted jail building has the best archaeological collection, including the best-accessible display of Jade Head replicas. The real draw for most visitors to Belize is the combination of Maya ruins and Caribbean coastline: Ambergris Caye (the most developed), Caye Caulker (smaller and more laid back), and the Belize Barrier Reef, the second largest in the world. The reef offers some of the best diving and snorkelling in the Western Hemisphere.

Xunantunich (near San Ignacio in the west) and Caracol (farther south in the jungle) are the more dramatic Maya sites if you have more time in the country.