Abu Simbel Egypt
Twice a year, on February 22nd and October 22nd, sunlight enters the innermost sanctuary of the Great Temple of Abu Simbel and illuminates the seated statues of Ramses II, Ra-Horakhty, and Amun while leaving the figure of Ptah, god of the underworld, in darkness. This was engineered into the building’s alignment over 3,200 years ago. The dates likely correspond to Ramses II’s birthday and coronation. The fact that this precision survived the temple’s relocation in the 1960s, when UNESCO cut the entire structure into 1,041 massive blocks and reassembled it 65 metres higher to save it from the Aswan High Dam reservoir, is its own engineering story.
The Temples
The Great Temple is carved into a cliff face, with four colossal seated statues of Ramses II at 20 metres each guarding the entrance. The inner sanctuary is 60 metres inside the rock. The smaller adjacent temple, dedicated to the goddess Hathor and to Ramses’s wife Nefertari, is the only ancient Egyptian temple built for a woman of non-royal birth elevated to divine status.
Entry to the Abu Simbel temples costs around USD 8 to 9. Book well in advance for the Sun Festival dates (February 22nd and October 22nd); tickets for those mornings are limited and the viewing is by standing-room lottery. The actual alignment event lasts about 20 minutes at sunrise and is followed by Nubian cultural performances outside the complex.
Getting There
Abu Simbel is 280 kilometres south of Aswan by road. Aswan is the practical base for any visit to the far south of Egypt. From Aswan, you have three options: fly (45 minutes, recommended), join an organized convoy (the road south through the desert runs in convoys for security reasons, departing early morning), or take a Nile cruise that includes Abu Simbel as the southernmost stop.
The flight from Aswan to Abu Simbel airport takes 45 minutes. From the airport, a short bus or taxi ride reaches the temples. Most Aswan-based hotels can arrange flights and transfers as part of a package.
Aswan
Aswan is a better base than most Egypt itineraries give it credit for. The Nubian Museum in Aswan is an excellent introduction to the Nubian culture that was displaced by the Aswan dam project, with collections covering 7,000 years of Nubian civilisation. Philae Temple, similarly relocated to its island setting to escape the dam’s waters, is reachable by short boat crossing from the Aswan waterfront and is less crowded than Abu Simbel.
The Aswan souk is the most honest market in Egypt for buying Nubian textiles, spices, and crafts; prices are lower and pressure is less intense than in Luxor or Cairo.
When to Visit
November through February is the right season: daytime temperatures around 20 to 25 degrees Celsius and clear skies. Summer (June through August) regularly exceeds 45 degrees; the temples are survivable at 7am and dangerous by 10am. If you go in summer, get there at opening time and leave before the heat builds.