Hangzhou China 2 Day Itinerary
The Song Dynasty court moved to Hangzhou in 1127 and stayed for 150 years, which is one reason the city developed a concentration of gardens, temples, and tea culture that Marco Polo described as “the most beautiful and magnificent city in the world.” That is extravagant praise, but West Lake on a clear morning makes it feel slightly less absurd.
Getting There
Hangzhou is 180 km southwest of Shanghai. The high-speed train from Shanghai Hongqiao station to Hangzhou East (Hangzhou Dong) takes about 45 minutes and costs around ¥73 (€9). Trains run roughly every 15 to 30 minutes. From the airport (Hangzhou Xiaoshan International, HGH), the airport express takes about 45 minutes to Hangzhou East station. A taxi from the airport to the West Lake area costs around ¥120 to ¥150.
Payments
China is functionally cashless for most daily transactions. Set up Alipay before arrival: the international version links to a foreign Visa or Mastercard without needing a Chinese bank account. You scan your passport to activate it. Almost every restaurant, shop, transport ticket, and tourist entrance accepts Alipay. WeChat Pay also works for foreigners now but Alipay’s “Transport” button integrates directly with Hangzhou Metro. Keep ¥200 in cash as a fallback for very small street vendors, but you will rarely need it.
Where to Stay
Staying near the West Lake scenic area is worth the slight premium. Hotels within walking distance of the lake include the Amanfayun (a splurge at ¥3,000 per night, set within a restored tea village) and more affordable options in the Nanshan Road corridor at ¥400 to ¥800 per night. Hangzhou East station area is well connected but removes you from the character of the city; the lake vicinity is the right base for a two-day visit.
Day 1: West Lake, Tea Plantations, and Lingyin Temple
The West Lake scenic area is free to enter and covers roughly 60 square kilometres including the lake, surrounding hills, gardens, and causeways. Skip the wide circular road that buses use and instead walk the Su Causeway, the 2.8-km tree-lined embankment running north-south across the lake. It is the most pleasant way to cross the lake on foot and is much less crowded than the outer paths by mid-morning.
Public bike hire stations are at regular intervals around the lake with bikes available for ¥2 to ¥5 per hour using Alipay. Cycling the full perimeter of West Lake takes about two hours at a relaxed pace and is a better option than the tour buses.
Leifeng Pagoda on the southern shore (¥40 entry) has a glass-floor viewing platform at the top with a good lake view and is worth the climb. The original Song Dynasty pagoda collapsed in 1924; the current structure from 2002 is modern but contains genuine archaeological foundations and artefacts from the original excavation.
For lunch, head to Qinghefang Ancient Street, a pedestrian shopping and food street about 15 minutes walk southeast of the lake. The food stalls and small restaurants here serve traditional Hangzhou dishes: Dongpo Pork (braised pork belly in soy sauce and Shaoxing wine, named after poet Su Dongpo who lived in Hangzhou), Beggar’s Chicken (whole chicken wrapped in lotus leaves and clay-baked), and dragon well shrimp (longjing shrimp cooked with the local tea leaves). Restaurant Louwailou on the lakeside has been serving these dishes since 1848 and is the obvious splurge choice.
In the afternoon, take a taxi or Bus 18 to Meijiawu Longjing Tea Village (about 30 minutes from the lake). The terraced tea gardens here produce West Lake Longjing (Dragon Well tea), one of China’s most esteemed green teas. Farmers in the village offer tasting sessions and will sell directly. Genuine first-flush West Lake Longjing costs ¥300 to ¥3,000 per 100g; anything significantly cheaper being sold as West Lake Longjing is almost certainly from outside the protected geographic area. The best harvest is before the Qingming Festival in early April; outside that window, ask what grade and season you are buying.
From the tea village, continue by taxi to Lingyin Temple (¥45 entry to the temple complex, combined ¥90 ticket includes Feilai Feng). The temple dates from 326 AD and has been rebuilt multiple times after wars and fires. Feilai Feng (Peak Flown from Afar) beside it has over 470 Buddhist stone carvings cut directly into the cliff faces from the 10th to 14th centuries, which are remarkable and receive far less attention than the temple itself.
Return to the lake in the evening for the night view. The reflection of Leifeng Pagoda lit up at the south end and the illuminated causeway bridges is the scene that features in classical Chinese painting, and it earns its reputation.
Day 2: Xixi Wetlands, Silk Museum, and Departure
Xixi National Wetland Park in the western part of the city is an unusual urban wetland: 11 square kilometres of waterways, fish ponds, farmland, and secondary forest inside a major Chinese city. Take a punt boat (¥50 to ¥80 depending on the route) through the narrow channels between willow trees in the morning, when mist often hangs over the water. The park is at its best on weekdays when the crowds thin out considerably. Bus 801 or 817 from the city centre reaches the main entrance.
The Xixi Wetland Museum inside the park covers the ecology and conservation history in reasonable depth and is free with park admission. The ecosystem here includes migratory birds on the East Asian-Australasian flyway, making autumn (September to November) a particularly good time to visit.
After the wetlands, head east to the China National Silk Museum on Donghu Road (¥50 entry). Hangzhou has been a centre of silk production since at least the Tang Dynasty, and the museum has looms, historical fabrics, and a well-curated exhibit on the mechanics of sericulture. The on-site shop sells certified silk scarves and fabric at fair prices; this is a more reliable place to buy than most tourist markets.
Before Departure
Longjing tea is the most practical souvenir from Hangzhou. If you did not buy directly from a farmer in Meijiawu, the government-certified tea shops near Longjing Village (accessible by taxi from the West Lake) carry authenticated products with geographic indication labels. Avoid buying from vendors near the main tourist entrances who approach you proactively; the price will be high and authenticity is questionable.
The Hangzhou East train station is the departure point for most visitors returning to Shanghai or continuing to other cities. Allow 30 minutes from the West Lake area by metro (Metro Line 1 to Hangzhou East) or taxi. The station is large; follow signs to your platform early.