Gambia 2 Day Itinerary
Janjangbureh sits 300 kilometers upriver from Banjul, a five to six hour drive one way, and the Wassu Stone Circles are another hour past that on top. Anyone handing you a two-day itinerary that includes a round trip to Georgetown and Wassu plus a full day on the coast has done the math wrong, and the version below fixes that by keeping you on the coastal strip, where two days is actually enough time to do things properly rather than spend both days in a vehicle.
Most Commonwealth citizens, EU nationals, and a list of other named countries including the UK enter Gambia visa-free for up to 90 days; everyone else can apply for an e-visa online within about five working days or pay for one on arrival. Regardless of visa status, every visitor pays a 20 dollar security fee in cash, US dollars or dalasi, both on entry and again on departure, so keep that cash separate from what you’ll spend elsewhere. A yellow fever vaccination certificate is checked at entry and needs to travel with your passport, not buried in checked luggage.
Day 1: Banjul and the Bakau Coast
At the airport, head straight for the official green taxi rank rather than accepting offers from anyone approaching you in the parking area; agree the fare before you get in, since meters aren’t standard practice here. Gelly-gellys, the shared minibuses, and unmarked private cars are best avoided as an independent tourist even though locals use them constantly.
- Start in Banjul itself at Albert Market, a genuinely chaotic, colorful trading hub for textiles, crafts, and produce. Haggling is expected and starting prices assume you will negotiate down by a third or more.
- Arch 22, built in 1996 to mark a change of government, gives you a rooftop view over the city for a small entry fee; it’s more useful as an orientation point than a must-see monument in its own right.
- For lunch, look for domoda, a rich peanut stew usually served over rice, or benachin, the Gambian version of the wider West African jollof tradition, cooked in one pot with fish or meat, vegetables, and a deep tomato base.
- In the afternoon, head to Bakau for the Kachikally Crocodile Pool, a sacred site tied to local fertility folklore that’s been open to visitors for decades. Entry runs around 200 dalasi and includes a small museum plus a walk around the pool itself, home to roughly 200 crocodiles that have grown used to people; guides let you touch one under close supervision, though whether that’s something you want to do is a fair personal call given the animal welfare debate around habituated wildlife encounters like this one.
- Round out the afternoon at Cape Point or Fajara Beach nearby, both quieter than the packed resort beaches further south, before a sunset dinner back toward the Bakau or Fajara strip.
My take: skip chasing bioluminescence on a random beach after dark. It’s a real phenomenon in some coastal waters worldwide, but it’s not a reliable or well-documented Gambian attraction, and you’ll get more out of a proper sunset walk on Fajara Beach than wandering the sand at night hoping for a glow that may not appear.
Day 2: Tanji and the Coastal Strip
- Tanji Fish Market is the best working fishing village experience on this stretch of coast, boats coming in with the day’s catch, women processing and smoking fish on the beach in scenes that haven’t changed much in generations. Go in the morning when the boats are actually landing rather than in the afternoon when the market has quieted down.
- Tanji Bird Reserve sits just inland from the market and covers a genuinely rich mix of coastal scrub, lagoon, and forest habitat; Gambia punches well above its size for birdwatching, with several hundred species recorded in the country, and a local guide at the reserve entrance will spot far more than you would alone.
- Lunch at one of the small beachside places near Tanji serving grilled fish straight off that morning’s boats, simpler and fresher than anything you’d get further up the coast in the resort zone.
- Afternoon: if you want a cultural stop that doesn’t require the Janjangbureh trek, consider Bijilo Forest Park nearby instead, a small reserve with resident vervet and red colobus monkeys and an easy walking loop, a far more realistic add-on than trying to reach the stone circles in the time you have left.
- Head back toward Banjul or your accommodation for a final dinner, ideally trying benachin again if you liked it the first time, since versions vary meaningfully between cooks and neighborhoods.
If Wassu and Janjangbureh genuinely matter to you, that river trip deserves its own dedicated day or two, ideally an overnight in Janjangbureh itself with the stone circles the following morning, rather than being squeezed into a coastal itinerary where it simply does not fit.
Practical Notes
The Gambian dalasi is the local currency; US dollars are useful for the airport security fee and some tour bookings but day-to-day spending is easier in dalasi, and ATMs in Banjul and the resort areas dispense it reliably. Tipping is appreciated but not rigid, 10 percent is a fair benchmark at restaurants used to tourists. Malaria risk is present year-round, so prophylaxis and repellent matter regardless of season, and the rainy season from June through October brings heavier humidity and occasional road disruption on unpaved stretches away from the main coastal road.